This is a glimpse of a city that has truly changed since my last stay 18 years ago. Newcastle upon Tyne’s southern neighbour Gateshead is now a clutch of bright, shiny new buildings, including the Sage concert hall and Millennium Bridge linking to its more established counterpart. Meanwhile, the Baltic – an old flour mill – has been converted into a contemporary art gallery.
Newcastle city centre is handsome, majestic and at times austere in the unforgiving climate of north-east England. At its ancient heart is a sturdy castle keep and some flights of steep, precarious steps. Enjoy the whistle-stop tour of a city divided by time and a great river.