Mauritania. A vast country in north-west Africa dominated by the Sahara Desert.
It’s almost untouched by mass tourism, which prompted me to book a trip there last month.
Did Mauritania offer an authentic, memorable taste of Saharan life or was it tougher than a camel’s hide?
Enjoy the photographs and continue reading below to find out.
Tap/click first image to see gallery
My first impression of Mauritania wasn’t a good one, with a long queue for visa processing which seemed slowed by bureaucracy.
And when it was eventually my turn to be admitted into the country – I wasn’t. Border officials disliked something about my details and I was left on the sidelines.
The wait was exasperating rather than tense. When I finally got the green light, my suitcase was trundling around alone on the baggage carousel.
The airport and capital city Nouakchott were soon a distant memory when our crew and two sturdy pick-ups whisked us off to the Adrar region and nine days in the Sahara.
When in Mauritania, wear the headdress
The adventure encompassed everything from sleeping in a tent near the awesome Azoueiga dunes, plus exploring the ancient towns of Chinguetti and Ouadane. And don’t forget the breath-taking landscape of the so-called Eye of the Sahara.
And then there are the Mauritanians. A resilient people often clad in a beautiful flash of colour, fuelled by frothy shots of eyewateringly sweet mint tea. Try speaking a little French, you’ll come away with some memorable little encounters.
Let’s be honest, this is a tough part of the world and a trip involves a lot of travelling on the sand when the road evaporates, not to mention heat, cold at night and even sun-blotting sandstorms.
Aside from canvas by the dunes, accommodation was in a series of auberges or guesthouses, often with a broad, open Mauritanian tent set up in the courtyard.
Mauritanian mint tea is served as a frothy shot
But we stayed in basic en suite rooms with no minibars or pillow menus. This is a part of the world where you go with the flow and leave complaints back home.
Dinner was invariably a hearty pot-cooked stew with rice or couscous – there is no a la carte menu in the Sahara. A spate of gastric issues affected our small group during the trip, so come equipped with an iron-clad stomach.
Mauritania may have been a tough gig, but I also had some memorable experiences.
- Lying flat on the Saharan sand and looking up at a night sky carpeted with stars. So magical.
- Riding a placid older camel with only his handler for company on a peaceful trek to the dunes – unexpectedly calming.
- Witnessing the “marriage” of two Czech tourists in full Mauritanian costume accompanied by the rousing, raucous drumming and singing of local women musicians. A floor show that felt real.
Young men pose for a photo in the centre of murky Nouakchott
Heading back from the desert, the harmattan or sandstorm had swept in, turning the sky an eerie shade of grey and lodging grit between your teeth.
I was sorry that we didn’t take a tour of regional centre Atar, both bustling and fascinating. And Nouakchott, with its dusty streets, was all too brief. I wanted to visit the seaside in this desert republic.
It’s easy to go on holiday to Morocco or Tunisia and book a short desert excursion. Those countries are far more experienced in mainstream tourism.
But Mauritania has an elusive fascination. If you’re adventurous and happy to cast aside your usual five star standards, this could be the place for you.
UK company Undiscovered Destinations arranges trips to Mauritania, including private and tailor-made itineraries.
