Comoros Islands: Mohéli

/ mikeosbornphoto

When it comes to the Indian Ocean, most holidaymakers have heard of the sun-drenched paradises of the Maldives, Seychelles and Mauritius.

How about the Comoros Islands? This small nation, situated between the east African coast and north Madagascar, seems virtually undiscovered – so I had to take a look for myself.

The Islamic country gained its independence from France in 1975 and has had a bumpy political history, so there was a lot to find out.

My trip from Manchester to the Comoros on Ethiopian Airlines consisted of three stopovers until reaching the tiny, chaotic airport outside the capital Moroni.

But let’s start this discovery in Mohéli, the smallest of the three Comores, a place where nature and relaxation hold sway. CONTINUE READING BELOW

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A view of Mohéli's mountain and coast from the Laka Lodge lookout in the Comoros.
An orange-necked Mongoose Lemur seen on a visit to Laka Lodge in Mohéli, Comoros Islands.
Boys playing football on the beach at Nioumachoua, Mohéli island, Comoros.
A vast and ancient tree in the rainforest of Mohéli in the Comoros Islands.
A stunning indigo sunset seen over the Indian Ocean at Mohéli in the Comoros Islands.
A bunch of piercing red berries found in the rainforest on Mohéli island in the Comoros.
A portrait of two teenage boys on the beach at Nioumachoua, Mohéli island, Comoros.
A view of Laka Lodge beach on Mohéli in the Comoros islands as dusk begins to fall.
A ylang ylang flower bloom in the forests of Mohéli, the Comoros Islands.
The sight of a Livingstone Bat in flight over the forest canopy on Mohéli in the Comoros Islands.
A group of Comoran men resting in the shade by a beach on Mohéli island in the Comoros.
A dazzling seashell found on a beach at Mohéli in the Comoros islands.
A large spider sets its web across a patch of forest in Mohéli, the Comoros Islands.
A view of a bungalow at Laka Lodge in Mohéli, the Comoros Islands.
A black and white Mongoose Lemur clasping a tree on Mohéli island in the Comoros.

Mohéli is best reached by one of the Comores’ internal airlines Royal Air with its 1960s small plane and a Ukrainian crew. It’s half an hour from the other islands, Grand Comore and Anjouan.

Mohéli has some decent, solid stretches of Chinese-built road which took us to Laka Lodge, a cluster of bungalows set close to a beautiful beach.

Nature is the name of the game here, with trips to visit sea turtles and the vast Livingstone fruit bat. There’s even a group of Mongoose Lemurs who visit every afternoon expecting a feast of bananas.

This is a spot where even this reluctant bather took a dip in the sea, while walks up a lookout hill to witness fantastic, fiery sunsets were obligatory.

With just a small handful of other European guests, it was evident that few travellers have heard of this place let alone decided to make the long trip here.

The lodge was next to the village of Nioumachoua, with the beach playing host to football games and young lads asking to have their photograph taken. 

One evening we heard there were lengthy, lavish wedding celebrations taking place and walked over to witness this spectacle.

It happened to be the night when it was the men’s turn to dance. I went from watching to having a ylang ylang blossom garland and a gold sash placed around my neck and joining in the festivities. A memorable brush with the culture of this small island.

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Video credit: Priscilla Camue

Coming soon: Visits to the larger islands of the seldom visited Comoros archipelago. Is this a country that should become a bucket list staple or left to the more adventurous tourist?

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