Almaty: Heart of Kazakhstan

August 10, 2025August 19, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / 2 Comments

Kazakhstan. One of the few countries to replace its capital city and build a brand spanking new one.

Almaty was the capital of Soviet and independent Kazakhstan from 1929-97 when the government upped sticks north to Astana.

The city still boasts a population of two million and is always on every Kazakhstan tour itinerary.

How does Almaty compare to its shiny replacement Astana? Here’s what I found on my trip to Kazakhstan. CONTINUE READING BELOW

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When you arrive in Almaty on a sleeper train from Shymkent, it takes time to adjust to your new settings.

But this is a walkable city with a view of the mighty Tien Shan mountains never far away. On foot you soon discover Almaty is very different to purpose-built Astana.

The opulent interior of the Orthodox Ascension Cathedral in Almaty, Kazakhstan.

The warmth and spirituality of Almaty’s Ascension Cathedral

The architecture stretches a lot further back, from well-worn but interesting apartment blocks from the Soviet era, to the multi-coloured confection of Almaty’s main Orthodox cathedral.

We were in Kazakhstan in time for commemorations to mark the Second World War’s end, and Almaty’s Memorial of Glory was carpeted in red flowers and decorated with Soviet symbolism. A bygone age that still casts a shadow over this city.

One legacy of the USSR sits deep beneath the surface of the city. The underground rail system is a cheap way to zip around Almaty and a tourist must-see with its elaborate and ornate stations.

The city’s vast Green Market groans under the weight of fresh produce (including horse meat – this is Central Asia). The colour, noise, people and aromas make it a place to explore and get a snapshot of a country.

Tour leader Nazira Rakhmetova giving expert guidance around Almaty, Kazakhstan.

Discover Almaty with a local: expert guide Nazira in full flow

And if you want a memorable evening out, some city restaurants offer a robust range of national dishes accompanied by the mesmerising, haunting sound of live Kazakh music. This place turned out to be an excellent choice.

Time in Almaty was limited as we tried to cover the vastness of Kazakhstan (and smaller neighbour Kyrgyzstan).

But a solo Sunday afternoon stroll along Zhibek Zholi, one of Almaty’s thoroughfares, was very telling. It was relaxed with locals stopping for an ice-cream and enjoying a day off.

Almaty feels very lived in and like it has evolved over decades. It may no longer have the status of a national capital, but still has all the hallmarks of Kazakhstan’s most important city.

Kazakhstan’s mystical city

July 27, 2025July 24, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / 6 Comments

Kazakhstan is vast. After being wowed by the country’s showpiece capital Astana, it took a two-hour flight to reach my next destination.

Turkistan is a city in the south of the country and the resting place of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, a Sufi teacher and mystic revered by Central Asian Muslims.

His mausoleum is a beautiful old building in a place that celebrates ancient traditions. But Turkistan has a thoroughly modern side and is geared up for floods of visitors.

Is this a tourist trap or an essential stop on your Kazakh adventure? CONTINUE READING BELOW

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The Yasawi mausoleum is the star of Turkistan with its ornate blue dome, beautifully tiled exterior and a deep sense of history.

Other roots of Kazakh tradition are on show nearby, including an ancient bath house and a covered bazaar street (now selling an array of souvenirs).

Old gives way to the brand spanking new in the Karavansaray development, a complex offering shops, restaurants serving Kazakh dishes and other leisure pursuits. There’s even a Venetian-style waterway where you can take a boat trip.

While it’s easy to be a little cynical about what Turkistan has to offer, there’s one attraction which blew my socks off.

Housed under a sparkling gold dome, the flying theatre uses spectacular footage and shifting chairs to take you on a magic carpet ride over Kazakhstan.

Two young waitresses photographed at a traditional restaurant in the Kazakh city of Turkistan.

Steppe smiles: Staff at a Turkistan restaurant serving hearty Kazakh food

It was like a thinking man’s thrill ride and an unexpectedly moving experience which you must do if you land in this city.

Turkistan was just a quick stop between Astana and an overnight train ride to Kazakhstan’s biggest city Almaty.

It broke up the long hours of travel and was a startling contrast between modern attractions and its ancient mausoleum, which is worth seeing if Uzbekistan and its Silk Road treasures are not part of your Central Asia itinerary.

Forgettable travel isn’t worth doing and Turkistan had its memorable moments.

Next time: Almaty, displaced by Astana as Kazakhstan’s capital, but still arguably the beating heart of the country.

Astana: Pride of Kazakhstan

June 29, 2025June 29, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / 6 Comments

After a 15-hour journey from my home in Manchester, I arrived in Astana, the shiny purpose-built capital of Kazakhstan.

This first taste of Central Asia promised to be far from the myths created by Borat.

Astana became the Kazakh capital and seat of government in 1997, a thousand miles north of biggest city Almaty.

It bristles with tall, ambitious landmark buildings and wide avenues. Is Astana a strange folly or an architecture fan’s wet dream? CONTINUE READING BELOW

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My initial impression of Astana was like any other big city – snarled up with traffic. A light monorail is being built to take some pressure off the roads.

Some of Astana’s landmarks loomed large on the drive to the hotel, including the huge gold orb of the totemic Bayterek Tower.

My first little trip out with my camera ended stickily. I was photographing the blue dome of the Presidential Palace and was promptly apprehended by a police officer, asked for my passport and told to delete the image.

Nur-Astana mosque has to be visited

But me and my camera were never questioned again, which was welcome in this sparklingly photogenic new capital city.

It’s hard to walk around Astana without looking up at the vast collection of lofty architecture, from the symbolic to government ministries and very large modern apartment blocks.

Meanwhile, a visit to Nur-Astana mosque outside of the centre is a must with its many domes, palatial hallways and an awe-inspiring prayer room prompting more looking up.

Mike Osborn in Independence Square in Kazakhstan's capital Astana.

Independence Square is a place for peering up

Astana may seem like an architectural playground, but is the heart of Kazakhstan’s government and the people who keep it running and live there.

There are plenty of restaurants and cultural amenities to visit in the evening, while the city is fond of its caffeine with coffee shops in abundance. It’s a fully fledged metropolis less than 25 years after it took shape.

As a visitor it feels fresh, new and exciting. But it has some big distances which you might prefer to cover with a trusty taxi app. Worth the lengthy journey to get to this capital city on the steppes? That’s a yes from me.

Tunisia: Island architecture

May 3, 2025May 3, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / Leave a comment

My trip to Tunisia’s Djerba island was intended as a relaxing sunshine break after the long, chilly British winter.

Instead of lying on the beach I decided to hire a bicycle and see some of Djerba’s sights using pedal power alone.

Riding my trusty two-wheeled companion from Djerba Cyclo, I visited a wealth of mosques, saw some of the island’s abandoned buildings and appreciated the architecture of my hotel.

The gleaming combination of whitewash against blue sky was the biggest takeaway from my Tunisian island travels.

Read about my top finds below.

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Fadhloun mosque. Built in the 14th century, this mosque had the colour of Saharan sand when I visited. It’s a little eroded with the passage of time and remains a place of worship to this day. Very different to the loftier, more modern mosques of Djerba. Worth the cycle ride!

Tunisian windows. This became my obsession in Djerba. They’re typically shielded with ornate metal grilles, often painted blue. Instagrammable? You bet they are.

Abandoned architecture. The curious tower along Mehari Beach which may have been a restaurant terrace. And the landmark buildings on the island’s Ras Rmel peninsula, fittingly a nature reserve and home to unspoilt beaches.

Djerba offers both beachside relaxation and a heady shot of Tunisian culture. It’s easy to book a package and then explore beyond the hotel pool if you wish. Feel free to get in touch if you have any questions.