history

Almaty: Heart of Kazakhstan

/ mikeosbornphoto / 2 Comments

Kazakhstan. One of the few countries to replace its capital city and build a brand spanking new one.

Almaty was the capital of Soviet and independent Kazakhstan from 1929-97 when the government upped sticks north to Astana.

The city still boasts a population of two million and is always on every Kazakhstan tour itinerary.

How does Almaty compare to its shiny replacement Astana? Here’s what I found on my trip to Kazakhstan. CONTINUE READING BELOW

Tap/click first image to see gallery

When you arrive in Almaty on a sleeper train from Shymkent, it takes time to adjust to your new settings.

But this is a walkable city with a view of the mighty Tien Shan mountains never far away. On foot you soon discover Almaty is very different to purpose-built Astana.

The opulent interior of the Orthodox Ascension Cathedral in Almaty, Kazakhstan.

The warmth and spirituality of Almaty’s Ascension Cathedral

The architecture stretches a lot further back, from well-worn but interesting apartment blocks from the Soviet era, to the multi-coloured confection of Almaty’s main Orthodox cathedral.

We were in Kazakhstan in time for commemorations to mark the Second World War’s end, and Almaty’s Memorial of Glory was carpeted in red flowers and decorated with Soviet symbolism. A bygone age that still casts a shadow over this city.

One legacy of the USSR sits deep beneath the surface of the city. The underground rail system is a cheap way to zip around Almaty and a tourist must-see with its elaborate and ornate stations.

The city’s vast Green Market groans under the weight of fresh produce (including horse meat – this is Central Asia). The colour, noise, people and aromas make it a place to explore and get a snapshot of a country.

Tour leader Nazira Rakhmetova giving expert guidance around Almaty, Kazakhstan.

Discover Almaty with a local: expert guide Nazira in full flow

And if you want a memorable evening out, some city restaurants offer a robust range of national dishes accompanied by the mesmerising, haunting sound of live Kazakh music. This place turned out to be an excellent choice.

Time in Almaty was limited as we tried to cover the vastness of Kazakhstan (and smaller neighbour Kyrgyzstan).

But a solo Sunday afternoon stroll along Zhibek Zholi, one of Almaty’s thoroughfares, was very telling. It was relaxed with locals stopping for an ice-cream and enjoying a day off.

Almaty feels very lived in and like it has evolved over decades. It may no longer have the status of a national capital, but still has all the hallmarks of Kazakhstan’s most important city.

Link to mikeosbornphoto's Facebook page

Kazakhstan’s mystical city

/ mikeosbornphoto / 6 Comments

Kazakhstan is vast. After being wowed by the country’s showpiece capital Astana, it took a two-hour flight to reach my next destination.

Turkistan is a city in the south of the country and the resting place of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, a Sufi teacher and mystic revered by Central Asian Muslims.

His mausoleum is a beautiful old building in a place that celebrates ancient traditions. But Turkistan has a thoroughly modern side and is geared up for floods of visitors.

Is this a tourist trap or an essential stop on your Kazakh adventure? CONTINUE READING BELOW

Tap/click first image to see gallery

The Yasawi mausoleum is the star of Turkistan with its ornate blue dome, beautifully tiled exterior and a deep sense of history.

Other roots of Kazakh tradition are on show nearby, including an ancient bath house and a covered bazaar street (now selling an array of souvenirs).

Old gives way to the brand spanking new in the Karavansaray development, a complex offering shops, restaurants serving Kazakh dishes and other leisure pursuits. There’s even a Venetian-style waterway where you can take a boat trip.

While it’s easy to be a little cynical about what Turkistan has to offer, there’s one attraction which blew my socks off.

Housed under a sparkling gold dome, the flying theatre uses spectacular footage and shifting chairs to take you on a magic carpet ride over Kazakhstan.

Two young waitresses photographed at a traditional restaurant in the Kazakh city of Turkistan.

Steppe smiles: Staff at a Turkistan restaurant serving hearty Kazakh food

It was like a thinking man’s thrill ride and an unexpectedly moving experience which you must do if you land in this city.

Turkistan was just a quick stop between Astana and an overnight train ride to Kazakhstan’s biggest city Almaty. 

It broke up the long hours of travel and was a startling contrast between modern attractions and its ancient mausoleum, which is worth seeing if Uzbekistan and its Silk Road treasures are not part of your Central Asia itinerary.

Forgettable travel isn’t worth doing and Turkistan had its memorable moments.

Next time: Almaty, displaced by Astana as Kazakhstan’s capital, but still arguably the beating heart of the country.

Kyrgyzstan: Small but mighty

/ mikeosbornphoto / 8 Comments

I finally made it to Central Asia after years of travelling to other places instead.

This vast region – made up of five countries or ‘stans’ – is full of natural wonders, remnants of the Silk Road and endless terrain.

Some travellers choose to visit all countries in one epic trip, but I plumped for Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in a relatively swift bite.

Vast regional superpower Kazakhstan was followed by a quick glance at much smaller Kyrgyzstan – but did it do it justice? CONTINUE READING BELOW

Tap/click first image to see gallery

Crossing the land border into Kyrgyzstan was a choreographed but swift procedure. One young border guard grinned to see my passport photo hair has since disappeared.

This brief foray into the country was largely based around Karakol, a provincial city within striking distance of the Chinese border.

It boasts a beautiful wooden Orthodox cathedral topped with gold, a colourful mosque built without a single nail and many old Russian-style cottages with ornate shutters.

A lush valley among the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan.

Kyrgyzstan’s mountain valleys have a lush Alpine feel

Karakol was the launch pad to experience Kyrgyzstan’s landscape – verdant valleys surrounded by the mighty, snow-capped Tien Shan mountains.

These lands are studded with yurts and horsemen. This is breath-taking, open countryside, making even short hikes a tonic for the soul.

At Jeti Oguz Canyon, the rugged rock turns a rich terracotta colour. Little tip: look for the coffee hut perched there which serves an excellent brew and deliciously creamy hot chocolate.

There’s a different side to Kyrgyzstan when you reach Issyk-Kul Lake. This vast body of water is a place of pleasure boat rides and even boasts beaches and piers. It makes up for the coastline this landlocked nation doesn’t possess.

The lake’s cool vibes were followed by a long trip to a very sultry Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan’s capital. My enduring regret of this trip was not booking a couple of extra nights to explore the city.

Mike Osborn taking photographs on Lake Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan.

Testing my ‘sea’ legs in landlocked Kyrgyzstan. Photo: Wiktoria Tomkiewicz

After a final meal with the tour group – an eclectic bunch of nationalities and ages – it was time to prepare for a long, very early flight home. Bishkek will have a wait for another visit to Central Asia.

Kyrgyzstan felt more restrained and a lot less emboldened by oil and gas riches than their mightier Kazakh neighbours to the north.

But it’s a country blessed with landscape and beguiling culture. Well worth visiting if you come all this way. Stay a little longer if you can.

Next time: The start of a series on Kazakhstan – time to put those Borat myths to bed?…

Inside Manchester’s history

/ mikeosbornphoto / 2 Comments

One of my summer highlights was the chance to see inside an iconic Manchester building.

Manchester Central – now an exhibition and conference centre – started life in 1880 as a grand railway station until its closure in 1969.

The building, with its lofty arched roof and station clock, was empty for visitors to marvel at its scale and the prowess of Victorian engineering.

It’s part of a complex which has hosted everything from rock concerts to the Nightingale Hospital during the Covid-19 pandemic and is a Mancunian landmark.

What do you think?

Tap/click first image to view gallery

An interior view of Manchester's former Central Station, a feat of Victorian engineering.

The historic Midland Hotel can be seen through Manchester Central’s vast window

Manchester's ornate Tower of Light rising above the roof of Central Station.

The Tower of Light is a more recent Manchester landmark next to the former rail station

Link to mikeosbornphoto's Instagram account

Rotterdam: Architectural dream

/ mikeosbornphoto / Leave a comment

I chose to visit Rotterdam for my first stay in the Netherlands, lured by a city positively brimming with eye-catching modern architecture. 

The city centre was almost completely destroyed during World War II and was reconstructed in the decades following the conflict. 

Rotterdam is now filled with modern buildings, many of them high rise with contemporary designs. Enjoy the photographs and read about my highlights below.

Tap/click first image to view gallery

Here are a few Rotterdam buildings that really caught my eye.

The Cube Houses are an unmissable Rotterdam tourist attraction with their blazing yellow colour and impossible angles. Surprisingly tricky to photograph while you can take a look inside.

Rotterdam Central Station with its sweeping curves and diffused light is worth spending time in as well as being your likely arrival point in the city.

Groot Handelsgebouw is a large block I stumbled across next to the station. Built in 1953, it’s quite tall, studded with windows and has an elegant concrete facade. I was captivated.

The Maastoren Skyscraper soars upwards from a low-level neighbourhood and shimmers silver, high above its riverside base. It’s also a great landmark to navigate your way around this district.

My advice would be to walk around Rotterdam and just keep looking up. There’s so much architecture to feast your eyes upon. Are you ready to make a detour from Amsterdam?

Link to mikeosbornphoto print shop