Cape Verde: São Vicente

My trip around the Cape Verde archipelago started on Santiago, the largest island, followed by a hop to Fogo and its active volcano.

Next was another local plane journey to the islands’ northern flank and a stay on São Vicente.

This is an island of huge contrasts, with a bustling city and some empty, arid landscapes to explore. Is São Vicente worth visiting?… READ MORE BELOW


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The city of Mindelo is arguably the heart and soul of Cape Verde, even if the seat of government is Praia on Santiago.

It sits handsomely on a large bay and is a patchwork of colourful streets that I could have explored and photographed for many more days. 

The place comes to life in the late evenings with live music in bars, restaurants and on the streets. Mindelo was home to legendary singer Cesaria Evora, who gained international fame and is held in high esteem by Cape Verdeans.

This city is full of life and vibrancy which was a welcome escape from the cold and dismal European winter.

It’s an easy walk to sandy Laginha Beach, with views across to Santo Antão island and the promise of some stunning sunsets, while you should visit the fish market further along the bay.

As for the rest of São Vicente, it couldn’t be more different. It’s lofty, arid and sparsely populated with some wild beaches and dunes. I took a jeep tour which was bumpy, dusty but enjoyable.

The pull of Mindelo is irresistible, but it’s worth seeing the other side of São Vicente and its lost landscapes.

The next stop is the fourth and final island of Cape Verde I visited on my trip. Did I save the best for last? Keep your eyes peeled for the next post…

Kira's Boutique Hotel in Mindelo, Cape Verde

Kira’s Boutique Hotel, Mindelo

My base in Mindelo was Kira’s Boutique Hotel, consisting of just 10 rooms named after Cape Verde’s islands. Comfortable, with very friendly staff, a lovely rear terrace and within easy walking distance of the city centre. Fittingly, I stayed in the room named after São Vicente!

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Cape Verde: Fogo

My memorable trip to the Cape Verde archipelago started in Santiago, the main and most populous island.

The next stop, Fogo, was a short 25-minute plane hop away, just enough time for water to be served to passengers.

This small isle is dominated by the cone of Pico de Fogo, an active volcano which last erupted in 2014. But is that all there is to see? READ MORE BELOW


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Fogo’s volcano is clearly a huge draw to visitors. Its surrounding lunar landscape, which I hiked around for hours, seems out of place on a small island.

It’s easy to trace lava tracks from previous eruptions, while the village of Portela still bears scars from 2014. It’s being rebuilt despite sitting in the volcano’s shadow.

But Fogo has more to offer, including its main town São Filipe which gently cascades down to a large beach of pitch black volcanic sand.

My base in São Filipe was Melissa’s Guest House with its small but perfectly formed infinity pool and a terrace with views down the hill to the unmissable blue church and across the ocean.

The town has a wonderful mix of colourful, sometimes tumbledown Cape Verdean architecture and has its own bustling produce market like every town across the archipelago.

Evening walks around the town are relaxed and inevitably lead to watching the sun set behind the neighbouring island of Brava before seeking solace in one of the bars or restaurants. I was totally charmed by this little island capital.

Other places well worth seeing in Fogo are an invigorating stretch of coastline around the town of Mosteiros and the arches and rocks at Ponta da Salina. Coffee and bananas grow in the lush uplands around Cutelo Alto – perfect for a sub-tropical stroll.

Fogo feels a world apart from bigger neighbour Santiago, while my next stop in Cape Verde would reveal another face of this small nation. Stay tuned!

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