Astana: Pride of Kazakhstan

June 29, 2025June 29, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / 6 Comments

After a 15-hour journey from my home in Manchester, I arrived in Astana, the shiny purpose-built capital of Kazakhstan.

This first taste of Central Asia promised to be far from the myths created by Borat.

Astana became the Kazakh capital and seat of government in 1997, a thousand miles north of biggest city Almaty.

It bristles with tall, ambitious landmark buildings and wide avenues. Is Astana a strange folly or an architecture fan’s wet dream? CONTINUE READING BELOW

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My initial impression of Astana was like any other big city – snarled up with traffic. A light monorail is being built to take some pressure off the roads.

Some of Astana’s landmarks loomed large on the drive to the hotel, including the huge gold orb of the totemic Bayterek Tower.

My first little trip out with my camera ended stickily. I was photographing the blue dome of the Presidential Palace and was promptly apprehended by a police officer, asked for my passport and told to delete the image.

Nur-Astana mosque has to be visited

But me and my camera were never questioned again, which was welcome in this sparklingly photogenic new capital city.

It’s hard to walk around Astana without looking up at the vast collection of lofty architecture, from the symbolic to government ministries and very large modern apartment blocks.

Meanwhile, a visit to Nur-Astana mosque outside of the centre is a must with its many domes, palatial hallways and an awe-inspiring prayer room prompting more looking up.

Mike Osborn in Independence Square in Kazakhstan's capital Astana.

Independence Square is a place for peering up

Astana may seem like an architectural playground, but is the heart of Kazakhstan’s government and the people who keep it running and live there.

There are plenty of restaurants and cultural amenities to visit in the evening, while the city is fond of its caffeine with coffee shops in abundance. It’s a fully fledged metropolis less than 25 years after it took shape.

As a visitor it feels fresh, new and exciting. But it has some big distances which you might prefer to cover with a trusty taxi app. Worth the lengthy journey to get to this capital city on the steppes? That’s a yes from me.

Kyrgyzstan: Small but mighty

June 15, 2025January 14, 2026 / mikeosbornphoto / 8 Comments

I finally made it to Central Asia after years of travelling to other places instead.

This vast region – made up of five countries or ‘stans’ – is full of natural wonders, remnants of the Silk Road and endless terrain.

Some travellers choose to visit all countries in one epic trip, but I plumped for Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in a relatively swift bite.

Vast regional superpower Kazakhstan was followed by a quick glance at much smaller Kyrgyzstan – but did it do it justice? CONTINUE READING BELOW

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Crossing the land border into Kyrgyzstan was a choreographed but swift procedure. One young border guard grinned to see my passport photo hair has since disappeared.

This brief foray into the country was largely based around Karakol, a provincial city within striking distance of the Chinese border.

It boasts a beautiful wooden Orthodox cathedral topped with gold, a colourful mosque built without a single nail and many old Russian-style cottages with ornate shutters.

A lush valley among the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan.

Kyrgyzstan’s mountain valleys have a lush Alpine feel

Karakol was the launch pad to experience Kyrgyzstan’s landscape – verdant valleys surrounded by the mighty, snow-capped Tien Shan mountains.

These lands are studded with yurts and horsemen. This is breath-taking, open countryside, making even short hikes a tonic for the soul.

At Jeti Oguz Canyon, the rugged rock turns a rich terracotta colour. Little tip: look for the coffee hut perched there which serves an excellent brew and deliciously creamy hot chocolate.

There’s a different side to Kyrgyzstan when you reach Issyk-Kul Lake. This vast body of water is a place of pleasure boat rides and even boasts beaches and piers. It makes up for the coastline this landlocked nation doesn’t possess.

The lake’s cool vibes were followed by a long trip to a very sultry Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan’s capital. My enduring regret of this trip was not booking a couple of extra nights to explore the city.

Mike Osborn taking photographs on Lake Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan.

Testing my ‘sea’ legs in landlocked Kyrgyzstan. Photo: Wiktoria Tomkiewicz

After a final meal with the tour group – an eclectic bunch of nationalities and ages – it was time to prepare for a long, very early flight home. Bishkek will have a wait for another visit to Central Asia.

Kyrgyzstan felt more restrained and a lot less emboldened by oil and gas riches than their mightier Kazakh neighbours to the north.

But it’s a country blessed with landscape and beguiling culture. Well worth visiting if you come all this way. Stay a little longer if you can.

Next time: The start of a series on Kazakhstan – time to put those Borat myths to bed?…

Six serene summer holiday spots

June 4, 2025August 6, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / Leave a comment

June marks the start of the summer holiday season when most of us choose to get away.

If you’re wondering where to go, here’s a handful of relaxing destinations that I’ve tried and tested and will hopefully provide some travel inspiration.

If you have any questions or your own suggestions, feel free to fill in the form at the bottom of this post. Happy holidays!

SERIFOS, GREECE

Unlike the popular Greek islands that tend to be overcrowded, sleepy Serifos is a simple blend of quiet beaches and lofty walks if you’re feeling energetic, with small-scale accommodation and plenty of tavernas and cafes. The island has a direct ferry connection to Athens. A recipe for holiday bliss? You betcha.

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WIRRAL, UNITED KINGDOM

A short hop away from Liverpool city centre, my homegrown serene spot is based on many day trips which could turn into a holiday. West Kirby’s waterside is a place to walk, relax and enjoy the scenery. Just be prepared for the British summer weather.

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SANTIAGO, CAPE VERDE

As Sal becomes an ever more popular tourist hotspot, my advice is to visit Santiago, markedly less visited even though it’s Cape Verde’s largest island. There’s a coastal area just south of Praia with a relaxed feel, while Tarrafal in the north is tropical and laidback. Santiago can be reached via Lisbon and is a good launchpad to explore the rest of this African archipelago.

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DJERBA, TUNISIA

A well-established North African escape less popular with Brits but easily reachable. You can doze on a sun lounger, wander along the beaches or experience some Arab culture if you’re feeling more active. Just watch out for some very hot weather in this little piece of Tunisia.

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MOHÉLI, COMOROS ISLANDS

Okay, so it takes around 24 hours to reach this rarely visited destination from the UK. But you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful tropical island scenery, your own lodge hut by the beach and the chance to see rainforest bats and stunning sea creatures. Throw in some sublime sunsets and this will be a transformative visit.

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COSTA CALMA, SPAIN

The ever popular Canary Islands are around a four-hour flight from the UK, with Fuerteventura being one of the quieter options. Costa Calma is a long sweep of sand in the island’s south. Relaxation is the name of the game here. There’ll be other tourists around but there’s plenty of room for them – and the great weather is almost guaranteed.

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Tunisia: Island architecture

May 3, 2025May 3, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / Leave a comment

My trip to Tunisia’s Djerba island was intended as a relaxing sunshine break after the long, chilly British winter.

Instead of lying on the beach I decided to hire a bicycle and see some of Djerba’s sights using pedal power alone.

Riding my trusty two-wheeled companion from Djerba Cyclo, I visited a wealth of mosques, saw some of the island’s abandoned buildings and appreciated the architecture of my hotel.

The gleaming combination of whitewash against blue sky was the biggest takeaway from my Tunisian island travels.

Read about my top finds below.

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Fadhloun mosque. Built in the 14th century, this mosque had the colour of Saharan sand when I visited. It’s a little eroded with the passage of time and remains a place of worship to this day. Very different to the loftier, more modern mosques of Djerba. Worth the cycle ride!

Tunisian windows. This became my obsession in Djerba. They’re typically shielded with ornate metal grilles, often painted blue. Instagrammable? You bet they are.

Abandoned architecture. The curious tower along Mehari Beach which may have been a restaurant terrace. And the landmark buildings on the island’s Ras Rmel peninsula, fittingly a nature reserve and home to unspoilt beaches.

Djerba offers both beachside relaxation and a heady shot of Tunisian culture. It’s easy to book a package and then explore beyond the hotel pool if you wish. Feel free to get in touch if you have any questions.