tourism

Lancaster: City of the past

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My home city of Manchester is a heady mix of historical architecture and shiny new skyscrapers.

Travel north by train for an hour and you’ll reach Lancaster, a historic city that owes a great deal to its past… CONTINUE READING BELOW

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From Lancaster train station it’s just a short walk to the city’s imposing castle, which was also a prison until as late as 2011.

Dark walls and deep crenellations give way to charming old houses around Castle Hill, some of them quaintly crooked, others with vine-covered porches.

As I wandered around the city centre on a sunny day, the dark sandstone of historical buildings persisted. There wasn’t a whiff of any new architecture, let alone the lofty glass and steel we have here in Manchester.

Lancaster may have an old shell, but it’s a thriving place filled with coffee shops, food stalls and everything needed by modern city dwellers. There was a pleasant hum of life walking around its historic streets.

Lancaster is also blessed with an old waterway and it’s well worth a diversion to wander along its towpath and under some low-slung bridges – they’ve been there some time too!

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Wales by the sea

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The British summer has been a disappointment, with cool temperatures and a lot of rain.

So when a warm sunny day was forecast, I travelled by train to Colwyn Bay on the north Wales coast – a place I’d never visited.

What did I think? And did the weather hold up? FIND OUT MORE BELOW

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My first sight was this lovely stretch of coast under blue skies and warm sunshine. I wasn’t the only one who had decided to flock to the seaside, but there was room for everyone.

Colwyn Bay has a short but perfectly formed Victorian pier which was remodelled and restored in 2021 with swathes of pink ironwork which looked stunning against the sky.

I wandered north to Colywn’s smaller neighbour Rhos-on-Sea with its stone harbour and stretches of stony coastline less intended for human habitation.

After a hearty lunch the weather had closed in, with swathes of grey cloud masking the sun. But somehow this added atmosphere to the coastal landscape and day trippers carrying on regardless.

This part of north Wales coastline sits between the brash resorts of Rhyl and Prestatyn, with the eternally popular Llandudno further north.

I’m glad I decided to explore the area and make the most of a break in our dank northerly summer. Does it look good to you?

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Greek islands: Serifos

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My hop around the Greek islands has taken in Tinos, rugged and covered in churches, and Syros with its majestic architecture and relaxed beaches.

The last stop – Serifos – is the smallest of the trio and has its own unique character. Is this the best island to go back to for a long, relaxed holiday?… READ MORE BELOW

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The mood on Serifos was set by my relaxing island base, with a modern, comfortable room and spacious balcony overlooking a charming little garden.

Just a short walk away was beautiful Livadakia Beach and the Vassilia beach bar, a relaxing and very friendly place where you could spend your days by the shore and have dinner in the evening.

Unlike Tinos and Syros, I hadn’t managed to secure a Serifos island tour, and even efforts to hire an electrically-assisted bicycle fell flat.

Left with just the feet I was born with, I went on a hike to see the island’s lighthouse and also walked all the way to the summit of the chora (old town) with the reward of stunning views over the main bay.

A view of the town of Livadi on the Greek island of Serifos

Livadi is the place to find restaurants, bars and shops on Serifos

I think you notice more when walking, from the detail of Greek island windows to the early summer carpets of wildflowers. These hikes turned into rich and interesting photography walks.

In late May Serifos was anything but crowded, but I sensed it was being prepared for the height of tourist season.

I felt like I was on vacation here and even dipped my toes in the crystal clear waters of the Aegean.

Of these three islands, Serifos felt like the holiday haven made for a relaxing week or two, although you might want to pick late Spring or early autumn to visit.

But with well over 200 inhabited Greek islands to choose from, the quest is only just beginning! 

The tour of Tinos, Syros and Serifos in the Greek Cyclades was booked through Secret Escapes. Flights with Aegean Airways from Manchester to Athens, ferry crossings, accommodation and all other transfers were included. I booked excursions on Tinos and Syros separately.

Cape Verde: Santo Antão

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I returned to international travel after a three-year hiatus with a trip to the Cape Verde islands.

My first stop was Santiago, seat of the country’s capital Praia. I then hopped to volcanic Fogo before moving north to São Vicente and the colourful city of Mindelo.

Lastly was a ferry crossing to Santo Antão, an island of rugged mountains and Cape Verde’s greenest valleys. Did I save the best until last? READ MORE BELOW

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Without an airport, Santo Antão feels less connected to Cape Verde’s other islands.

It’s more sparsely populated and a land where towering peaks and the Atlantic Ocean crashing against its craggy coastline prevail. 

Colourful little villages cling to the mountainsides, including unmissable Fontainhas which has even been feted by National Geographic magazine.

But there’s a flipside to Santo Antão’s dramatic cragginess. The Paul Valley is the greenest place in Cape Verde, with its own abundant water source supporting crops and lush vegetation. It’s a memorable place to hike, dotted with rustic homesteads.

Life can be hard here, but to the outsider it appears peaceful, simple and idyllic.

It would be fair to say that like many other visitors to Santo Antão, I was bowled over by its beauty and relative remoteness, unique to the Cape Verde islands I spent time in. It has to be on your itinerary – but please don’t go all at the same time!

I stayed at Pedracin Village with rooms built in the style of Santo Antão cottages (mine is pictured above!) Surrounded by mountains on all sides, this was a quiet place to marvel at the landscape and experience the island’s very relaxed vibe.

A good tour guide can make your visit. This is Samuel Rocha, from Santo Antão and a proud Cape Verdean. He showed me the unique character of his island and did it with enthusiasm and good humour. Samuel was my hike buddy on a trail around the beautiful Paul Valley, which was quite strenuous but a truly memorable experience.

I booked my Cape Verde trip with island specialists Archipelago Choice, a small company based in Cumbria, UK. It was a bespoke tour for one based on their Highlights of Cape Verde holiday. Vista Verde Tours took care of my transport and excursions while I was on the islands. I flew from Manchester to Cape Verde via Lisbon with TAP Air Portugal.

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Cape Verde: São Vicente

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My trip around the Cape Verde archipelago started on Santiago, the largest island, followed by a hop to Fogo and its active volcano.

Next was another local plane journey to the islands’ northern flank and a stay on São Vicente.

This is an island of huge contrasts, with a bustling city and some empty, arid landscapes to explore. Is São Vicente worth visiting?… READ MORE BELOW

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The city of Mindelo is arguably the heart and soul of Cape Verde, even if the seat of government is Praia on Santiago.

It sits handsomely on a large bay and is a patchwork of colourful streets that I could have explored and photographed for many more days. 

The place comes to life in the late evenings with live music in bars, restaurants and on the streets. Mindelo was home to legendary singer Cesaria Evora, who gained international fame and is held in high esteem by Cape Verdeans.

This city is full of life and vibrancy which was a welcome escape from the cold and dismal European winter.

It’s an easy walk to sandy Laginha Beach, with views across to Santo Antão island and the promise of some stunning sunsets, while you should visit the fish market further along the bay.

As for the rest of São Vicente, it couldn’t be more different. It’s lofty, arid and sparsely populated with some wild beaches and dunes. I took a jeep tour which was bumpy, dusty but enjoyable.

The pull of Mindelo is irresistible, but it’s worth seeing the other side of São Vicente and its lost landscapes.

The next stop is the fourth and final island of Cape Verde I visited on my trip. Did I save the best for last? Keep your eyes peeled for the next post…

Kira's Boutique Hotel in Mindelo, Cape Verde

Kira’s Boutique Hotel, Mindelo

My base in Mindelo was Kira’s Boutique Hotel, consisting of just 10 rooms named after Cape Verde’s islands. Comfortable, with very friendly staff, a lovely rear terrace and within easy walking distance of the city centre. Fittingly, I stayed in the room named after São Vicente!

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