Montenegro: Rugged and wild

June 9, 2024June 9, 2024 / mikeosbornphoto / 2 Comments

Do you find it difficult to relax on a sunbed for an entire week?

When I stayed in the charming Montenegrin town of Perast, I was eager to travel instead of taking it easy.

So I booked a day trip with 360 Monte to visit the north of Montenegro and see some stunning landscapes. CONTINUE READING BELOW

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I was picked up early in the morning to join a small multi-national group also keen to see the north of Montenegro, a contrast to the sunshine resorts of Kotor Bay and the Adriatic coast.

The first delight was climbing high above Perast for stunning views of the water below and soaring mountains bathed in beautiful morning light.

A view over Kotor Bay in Montenegro as dusk settles.

A view of Kotor Bay at the end of the day

The journey north was at times slow and on winding, lofty roads. Here are the highlights of north Montenegro that I saw:

Ostrog Monastery – A religious compound cradled in the mountains, dedicated to Saint Basil who is buried there. It’s a place of Orthodox devotion where his relics are kept in a tiny chapel. This was like entering another world far removed from my own.

Black Lake – Its waters are blue and fringed by pine forests and mountains in Durmitor National Park. A really impressive slice of nature.

Tara Canyon – The dazzlingly blue waters of the Tara River pass through this deep gorge. For engineering lovers there’s the vast Tara Bridge to cross. I decided against riding a zip wire over the gorge.

Salt Lake – An artificial body of water dotted with little islands near the city of Niksic. The lake looks steely blue if the skies are clear.

This was a long day on the road and there was one last treat on the way back to Perast – another view across Kotor Bay as a golden dusk was bedding in.

For a small country, Montenegro has more than its fair share of natural beauty, well worth seeing if you can tear yourself away from your sun lounger.

Montenegro: Kotor day trip

May 26, 2024May 26, 2024 / mikeosbornphoto / 6 Comments

This is the beach getaway to Spain that turned into a break in the small Balkan nation of Montenegro.

I stayed in the historic town of Perast on scenic Boka Bay, and a trip to nearby Kotor was an obvious way to spend a day.

Was this old city worth a visit? CONTINUE READING BELOW

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The journey from Perast to Kotor took half an hour on one of the regular local buses, costing a princely €2 each way.

As soon as I walked into the old town, it lived up to all my expectations.

Honey-coloured stone, small piazzas with churches and bell towers, and a labyrinth of alleyways studded with small shops and cafes were vying for attention.

Raise your eyes up a little further to see the cloud-topped mountains that tower above this old architecture, while the town is incredibly feline-friendly and a place to watch locals going about their lives.

It’s a tourist magnet and welcomes cruise liners, so expect these well-worn streets to get busy as they did even at the start of April. Arriving early and avoiding the summer months might be a wise move.

The old fortress high above the town of Kotor in Montenegro.

You might find yourself high above Kotor

Getting away from the city is a big part of its charm – if you’re feeling energetic you can climb above the old town to the tune of 1,350 steps, visiting the old fortress for stunning views over Kotor and the bay.

I think that going down can be trickier, but was glad to land back in the old town where there are no shortage of places for refreshment and to rest your legs.

As I returned to Perast, I wondered what it would be like to stay within Kotor’s walls and see it by night. I think my smaller base was the more tranquil option.

Perast: Pearl of Montenegro

May 12, 2024May 12, 2024 / mikeosbornphoto / 6 Comments

The winter in Manchester was dragging on so I sought escape to sunnier climes.

Spain seemed an obvious place for a relaxing break. But just one image in a web search turned this into… Montenegro.

I picked a small historical town for a week’s holiday. So is it worth ditching the usual hot spots? FIND OUT MORE BELOW

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Montenegro is a small country which sits between Croatia and Albania on the Adriatic Sea, with a modest population of 617,000.

It has been welcoming tourists since the days of Yugoslavia from the 1970s and this has been a mainstay of the country’s economy since independence in 2006.

I flew direct from Manchester to Tivat, a town on the Bay of Kotor which is an arm of the Adriatic that snakes inland and is surrounded by steep mountains. Think a Norwegian fjord.

The image of Perast which spurred me to booking my trip was of the Hotel Heritage Grand, an exquisite five star property at the heart of the town, consisting of smart modern buildings, a restored palace and even an old church.

I had a vast, comfortable room to myself, feasted on the sumptuous breakfast buffet and took relaxing dips in the indoor spa pool and rested on the sun loungers by the water’s edge.

The view of Kotor Bay from the viewpoint above Perast in Montenegro.

Clamber Perast’s stairs and you’ll enjoy views like this

The hotel staff offered a consummate and friendly level of service, with even the manager stopping to chat on her rounds.

If that isn’t for you, there are more modest accommodation options available in Perast, should you decide to make this town your base.

In short, it’s beautiful with its bayside setting and mountains in all directions. Honey-coloured stone from its Venetian heyday still stands, including the lofty St Nicholas belltower. Stairs lead up to an elevated view of Kotor Bay.

Even in early April, day trippers visit Perast making the waterfront quite busy. But after they melted away, I enjoyed relaxed dinners in the many waterside restaurants while watching some colourful sunsets.

Forget Spain?

If you’re looking for lively nightlife, Perast might disappoint you. It’s a peaceful spot and lends itself to relaxed, early nights or sitting outside nursing a coffee.

If you stay in Perast, you’re very close to a famous Kotor Bay attraction. A tiny island topped with a blue-domed church – Our Lady of the Rocks – is just a short and cheap boat ride away from the shore.

The island also boasts its own little lighthouse and can get very busy, so it’s worth taking the trip just after breakfast.

Is it a good move to swap a Spanish getaway for this Montenegrin town? True, you won’t get acres of golden sand here or raucous nightlife. But it boasts a majestic waterside setting and has a timeless elegance.

If, like me, you enjoy exploring and finding plenty to photograph, then Montenegro offers more. I’ll tell you about that in upcoming posts.

Greek islands: Syros

June 18, 2023June 14, 2023 / mikeosbornphoto / Leave a comment

The first stop on my Greek island trip took me to rugged Tinos with its numerous churches and pretty dovecotes.

Syros, just 30 minutes away on the ferry, was the next port of call for a brief but bountiful two-night stay. An island of two halves? READ MORE BELOW

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My base in Syros was the quiet seaside village of Finikas with its little marina and a good few restaurants to choose from.

I stayed at the Brazzera Hotel, a comfortable place with very friendly and helpful staff, situated a few strides from a golden stretch of beach and clear Aegean waters. Finikas turned out to be a relaxing place to wander around and enjoy some downtime.

With the island’s showpiece capital some miles distant, I treated myself to a tour with a guide, driver and comfortable car which was worth every penny. I’d arranged this in advance from the UK with great ease.

This was a chance to see some more of the island and get to grips with the city of Ermoupoli and its hilltop neighbour of Ano Syros, rich in resplendent buildings, winding little streets and some fantastic views. There was even an El Greco painting tucked away in a church.

Having a knowledgeable and skilled guide all to myself definitely added to the experience, which was better than wandering the streets alone.

Syros may be the nominal capital of the Cyclades islands, but has an understated charm and wasn’t heaving with visitors ahead of the peak summer season.

The pure blue skies you always expect in Greece were at times elusive, but added to the atmosphere and made photography a little more challenging.

If you like history and architecture coupled with the chance to chill on a secluded beach, Syros should be added to your island-hopping wishlist.

It was a short stay before the final island on this journey. Stayed tuned for the third little Greek gem.

Kosovo: Europe’s newest nation

December 1, 2019January 13, 2025 / mikeosbornphoto / 7 Comments

Kosovo is a small, landlocked state in the Balkans that declared its independence in 2008, making it the most recent addition to the European family of nations. But it’s an area with a long and tangled history, and some countries have refused to recognise it.

Kosovo is still considered an unlikely tourist destination, but I visited in the summer along with Albania and North Macedonia.

I found it the most fascinating of the trio. It feels like a country still being built, while there is a sharp divide between the majority Albanian population and a number of Serb enclaves.

What is there to see? The old city of Prizren is a gem, while Kosovo’s capital Pristina bristles with stark modern architecture. Peja bustles with life on a summer’s evening. Kosovo also has treasured Serbian Orthodox churches and monasteries which have to be visited. And fancy a woodland hike with a beautiful mirror lake at the end of it?

So here’s what I saw. It might be worth adding this new nation to your travel bucket list.