Agadir: Morocco’s resort city

Morocco’s seaside city of Agadir was rebuilt from scratch in 1960 after a devastating earthquake. It’s popular with European tourists but does it lack Eastern promise? CONTINUE READING BELOW


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Agadir’s crowning glory is its long, sweeping beach and promenade. They’re popular with Moroccans and tourists for walks, football games and dipping into the frothy Atlantic brine.

The shoreline is beautiful, and drew me into the water with my camera to capture reflections and the sheen on the sands.

It’s lined with a dizzying array of hotels, including the Palais de Roses which was my pleasant base for the week. Yes, the area feels a little watered down, European-leaning and lacking the North African buzz and excitement of Marrakech. It’s easier to find a steak dinner than a lamb tagine.

Couple on Agadir beach, Morocco

A romantic moment on Agadir’s beach

You could easily spend a week lounging by the pool and wandering along the beach. But inland there’s a whole other Agadir which is well worth exploring. It’s quite a walk from the seaside but there’s no shortage of taxis to take the strain. 

The city centre is where everyday Moroccan life happens. And given it was rebuilt in the 1960s, back streets in the Abattoir district look like they’ve been there for centuries.

You have to visit the Souk el Had, crammed with produce, tourist trinkets and just about everything else you can lay your hands on. It’s heady, pungent and brings you that Eastern promise in spades. Don’t be too polite to say no to stallholders’ approaches, and be careful when photographing people in the market.

It’s also worth taking a taxi up to Oufella, the hill that overlooks Agadir bay and is emblazoned with the words ‘God, King and country’. The views are exceptional, although when I went it was unusually murky (typical).

I also went on day trips to other parts of the coast, but can appreciate why some visitors decide to take it easy and just soak up the sun. The choice is all yours in the city of Agadir.

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Morocco road trip

On a trip to Morocco earlier this year I wanted to visit Legzira, of the country’s most striking beaches. Here’s how I did it. Read full story below


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The trip nearly didn’t happen after a booking made in the UK failed to materialise. But I was rescued by Bakhazouz Tours at my seaside base of Agadir.

It was early morning when small, wiry tour guide Imad arrived in his smart four-wheel drive jeep. My companions for the day were a pair of friendly, polite older French ladies – it was time to scrabble around for my schoolboy French. In the back were a young Russian couple who seemed content in their own bubble. Yet somehow they made it into one of my photographs.

The fabled stone arches of Legzira were a good three hours from Agadir, but this road trip came with a number of stops along the way. First it was a rustic Moroccan service station, complete with a butcher’s shop.

We reached the Youssef Ibn Tachfine Dam, with an artificial lake creating some unexpectedly beautiful landscapes. And close to this was a tiny scrap of full-on Sahara Desert, with orange sands and even a resident camel.

But for me a real highlight along the way was the old city of Tiznit where I could have spent much longer exploring and gathering photographs. Moroccan cities are intoxicating, colourful and humming with life. Tiznit’s ancient walls and crooked back streets were a thrill on the way to the main coastal attraction.

We finally got to Legzira by way of another beach called Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdelah, where buildings cling to the headland. Legzira itself is a small beach settlement of simple restaurants serving fish tagine, while there are also rooms for hire. Very tempting for catching blazing sunsets.

The beach is a broad sweep of sand with its famous ochre stone arch creating a corridor that you simply have to walk through. On one side it was enveloped in mist, from the other everything was clear and bright. You could spend hours wandering up and down the beach and exploring its rugged rock formations. Legzira was definitely worth the effort of getting there.

Our final stop seemed like a bonus. Further back up the coast, paragliders swooped around the sky catching some of those Atlantic thermals. A breathtaking sight, but a serious challenge for the camera.

Back in Agadir, I was the first to be dropped off. The end of a day trip is always tinged with sadness. Your companions head off into the sunset and are never seen again. It’s not usually long enough to establish real human connection. But I’d achieved my goal, I’d seen the Legzira arch and more besides.

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Essaouira: Morocco’s seaside gem

I was lucky enough to visit Morocco in February, before the coronavirus pandemic brought international travel to an abrupt halt.

My trip took me to the country’s Atlantic coastline with its warm winter sunshine. I spent a day in the town of Essaouira, which I can strongly recommend.

The old town’s ramparts are perched next to the lively ocean, and it’s full of colourful, rustic little streets to explore. Essaouira is very blue, including the boats of the bustling fishing port (pungent but well worth a look). Hungry gulls circle in clusters looking for morsels. There’s also a broad strip of beach away from the medina.

I came here in 2011 as part of a grand tour of Morocco and was charmed by it then. My opinion hasn’t altered and I could have spent several days there, watching people and taking more photographs. Read more beneath the gallery


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I thought long and hard about publishing a travel blog in a world where tourism has been severely curtailed. 

Morocco is in lockdown until at least June 10th, while some European countries and airlines are planning to restart for the summer.

The UK’s ban on all but essential travel remains in place and a great deal remains uncertain. Essaouria and Morocco may be a consideration for your travel bucket list, whenever that may be possible.

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