Travel

Greek islands: Serifos

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My hop around the Greek islands has taken in Tinos, rugged and covered in churches, and Syros with its majestic architecture and relaxed beaches.

The last stop – Serifos – is the smallest of the trio and has its own unique character. Is this the best island to go back to for a long, relaxed holiday?… READ MORE BELOW

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The mood on Serifos was set by my relaxing island base, with a modern, comfortable room and spacious balcony overlooking a charming little garden.

Just a short walk away was beautiful Livadakia Beach and the Vassilia beach bar, a relaxing and very friendly place where you could spend your days by the shore and have dinner in the evening.

Unlike Tinos and Syros, I hadn’t managed to secure a Serifos island tour, and even efforts to hire an electrically-assisted bicycle fell flat.

Left with just the feet I was born with, I went on a hike to see the island’s lighthouse and also walked all the way to the summit of the chora (old town) with the reward of stunning views over the main bay.

A view of the town of Livadi on the Greek island of Serifos

Livadi is the place to find restaurants, bars and shops on Serifos

I think you notice more when walking, from the detail of Greek island windows to the early summer carpets of wildflowers. These hikes turned into rich and interesting photography walks.

In late May Serifos was anything but crowded, but I sensed it was being prepared for the height of tourist season.

I felt like I was on vacation here and even dipped my toes in the crystal clear waters of the Aegean.

Of these three islands, Serifos felt like the holiday haven made for a relaxing week or two, although you might want to pick late Spring or early autumn to visit.

But with well over 200 inhabited Greek islands to choose from, the quest is only just beginning! 

The tour of Tinos, Syros and Serifos in the Greek Cyclades was booked through Secret Escapes. Flights with Aegean Airways from Manchester to Athens, ferry crossings, accommodation and all other transfers were included. I booked excursions on Tinos and Syros separately.

Greek islands: Syros

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The first stop on my Greek island trip took me to rugged Tinos with its numerous churches and pretty dovecotes.

Syros, just 30 minutes away on the ferry, was the next port of call for a brief but bountiful two-night stay. An island of two halves? READ MORE BELOW

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My base in Syros was the quiet seaside village of Finikas with its little marina and a good few restaurants to choose from.

I stayed at the Brazzera Hotel, a comfortable place with very friendly and helpful staff, situated a few strides from a golden stretch of beach and clear Aegean waters. Finikas turned out to be a relaxing place to wander around and enjoy some downtime.

With the island’s showpiece capital some miles distant, I treated myself to a tour with a guide, driver and comfortable car which was worth every penny. I’d arranged this in advance from the UK with great ease.

This was a chance to see some more of the island and get to grips with the city of Ermoupoli and its hilltop neighbour of Ano Syros, rich in resplendent buildings, winding little streets and some fantastic views. There was even an El Greco painting tucked away in a church.

Having a knowledgeable and skilled guide all to myself definitely added to the experience, which was better than wandering the streets alone.

Syros may be the nominal capital of the Cyclades islands, but has an understated charm and wasn’t heaving with visitors ahead of the peak summer season. 

The pure blue skies you always expect in Greece were at times elusive, but added to the atmosphere and made photography a little more challenging.

If you like history and architecture coupled with the chance to chill on a secluded beach, Syros should be added to your island-hopping wishlist.

It was a short stay before the final island on this journey. Stayed tuned for the third little Greek gem.

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Greek islands: Tinos

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My very first taste of Greece was in 2018 with a trip to glamorous Santorini.

But it’s one of the most popular Aegean island destinations and was packed with visitors seeking sunset selfies.

I wanted to discover the quieter side of Greek island life, so chose a trip taking in three lesser known spots in the Cyclades. First stop: Tinos READ MORE BELOW

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I had a very brief layover in Athens before the four-hour ferry crossing to Tinos.

The main town was all that I wished for, with little whitewashed streets and tucked away tavernas serving delicious food.

A main attraction is the Evangelistria church, a place so holy that a carpeted stretch of street allows pilgrims to get there on their knees. 

The coast within hiking distance of Tinos town offers sparkling clear azure waters and quiet stretches of beach which may well fill up in the height of summer.

Car or scooter hire isn’t an option for me, so I booked myself a tour of Tinos with an elderly driver-guide who knew the island like the back of his weathered hand.

This rugged place is dotted with villages and ornate Tinian dovecotes. Pyrgos, built on the riches of marble extraction and Volax, which sits on a scattering of volcanic rocks, are worthy stops.

Tinos comes with a note of caution, however. A fearsome wind capable of sweeping you off your feet can whip across the island and it felt so chilly that I invested in an emergency overcoat.

Hold on to your hats until the next island stop – Tinos was the interesting and far less crowded start I’d hoped for.

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Cape Verde: Santo Antão

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I returned to international travel after a three-year hiatus with a trip to the Cape Verde islands.

My first stop was Santiago, seat of the country’s capital Praia. I then hopped to volcanic Fogo before moving north to São Vicente and the colourful city of Mindelo.

Lastly was a ferry crossing to Santo Antão, an island of rugged mountains and Cape Verde’s greenest valleys. Did I save the best until last? READ MORE BELOW

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Without an airport, Santo Antão feels less connected to Cape Verde’s other islands.

It’s more sparsely populated and a land where towering peaks and the Atlantic Ocean crashing against its craggy coastline prevail. 

Colourful little villages cling to the mountainsides, including unmissable Fontainhas which has even been feted by National Geographic magazine.

But there’s a flipside to Santo Antão’s dramatic cragginess. The Paul Valley is the greenest place in Cape Verde, with its own abundant water source supporting crops and lush vegetation. It’s a memorable place to hike, dotted with rustic homesteads.

Life can be hard here, but to the outsider it appears peaceful, simple and idyllic.

It would be fair to say that like many other visitors to Santo Antão, I was bowled over by its beauty and relative remoteness, unique to the Cape Verde islands I spent time in. It has to be on your itinerary – but please don’t go all at the same time!

I stayed at Pedracin Village with rooms built in the style of Santo Antão cottages (mine is pictured above!) Surrounded by mountains on all sides, this was a quiet place to marvel at the landscape and experience the island’s very relaxed vibe.

A good tour guide can make your visit. This is Samuel Rocha, from Santo Antão and a proud Cape Verdean. He showed me the unique character of his island and did it with enthusiasm and good humour. Samuel was my hike buddy on a trail around the beautiful Paul Valley, which was quite strenuous but a truly memorable experience.

I booked my Cape Verde trip with island specialists Archipelago Choice, a small company based in Cumbria, UK. It was a bespoke tour for one based on their Highlights of Cape Verde holiday. Vista Verde Tours took care of my transport and excursions while I was on the islands. I flew from Manchester to Cape Verde via Lisbon with TAP Air Portugal.

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Cape Verde: São Vicente

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My trip around the Cape Verde archipelago started on Santiago, the largest island, followed by a hop to Fogo and its active volcano.

Next was another local plane journey to the islands’ northern flank and a stay on São Vicente.

This is an island of huge contrasts, with a bustling city and some empty, arid landscapes to explore. Is São Vicente worth visiting?… READ MORE BELOW

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The city of Mindelo is arguably the heart and soul of Cape Verde, even if the seat of government is Praia on Santiago.

It sits handsomely on a large bay and is a patchwork of colourful streets that I could have explored and photographed for many more days. 

The place comes to life in the late evenings with live music in bars, restaurants and on the streets. Mindelo was home to legendary singer Cesaria Evora, who gained international fame and is held in high esteem by Cape Verdeans.

This city is full of life and vibrancy which was a welcome escape from the cold and dismal European winter.

It’s an easy walk to sandy Laginha Beach, with views across to Santo Antão island and the promise of some stunning sunsets, while you should visit the fish market further along the bay.

As for the rest of São Vicente, it couldn’t be more different. It’s lofty, arid and sparsely populated with some wild beaches and dunes. I took a jeep tour which was bumpy, dusty but enjoyable.

The pull of Mindelo is irresistible, but it’s worth seeing the other side of São Vicente and its lost landscapes.

The next stop is the fourth and final island of Cape Verde I visited on my trip. Did I save the best for last? Keep your eyes peeled for the next post…

Kira's Boutique Hotel in Mindelo, Cape Verde

Kira’s Boutique Hotel, Mindelo

My base in Mindelo was Kira’s Boutique Hotel, consisting of just 10 rooms named after Cape Verde’s islands. Comfortable, with very friendly staff, a lovely rear terrace and within easy walking distance of the city centre. Fittingly, I stayed in the room named after São Vicente!

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