I finally made it to Central Asia after years of travelling to other places instead.
This vast region – made up of five countries or ‘stans’ – is full of natural wonders, remnants of the Silk Road and endless terrain.
Some travellers choose to visit all countries in one epic trip, but I plumped for Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in a relatively swift bite.
Vast regional superpower Kazakhstan was followed by a quick glance at much smaller Kyrgyzstan – but did it do it justice? CONTINUE READING BELOW
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Crossing the land border into Kyrgyzstan was a choreographed but swift procedure. One young border guard grinned to see my passport photo hair has since disappeared.
This brief foray into the country was largely based around Karakol, a provincial city within striking distance of the Chinese border.
It boasts a beautiful wooden Orthodox cathedral topped with gold, a colourful mosque built without a single nail and many old Russian-style cottages with ornate shutters.

Kyrgyzstan’s mountain valleys have a lush Alpine feel
Karakol was the launch pad to experience Kyrgyzstan’s landscape – verdant valleys surrounded by the mighty, snow-capped Tien Shan mountains.
These lands are studded with yurts and horsemen. This is breath-taking, open countryside, making even short hikes a tonic for the soul.
At Jeti Oguz Canyon, the rugged rock turns a rich terracotta colour. Little tip: look for the coffee hut perched there which serves an excellent brew and deliciously creamy hot chocolate.
There’s a different side to Kyrgyzstan when you reach Issyk-Kul Lake. This vast body of water is a place of pleasure boat rides and even boasts beaches and piers. It makes up for the coastline this landlocked nation doesn’t possess.
The lake’s cool vibes were followed by a long trip to a very sultry Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan’s capital. My enduring regret of this trip was not booking a couple of extra nights to explore the city.

Testing my ‘sea’ legs in landlocked Kyrgyzstan. Photo: Wiktoria Tomkiewicz
After a final meal with the tour group – an eclectic bunch of nationalities and ages – it was time to prepare for a long, very early flight home. Bishkek will have a wait for another visit to Central Asia.
Kyrgyzstan felt more restrained and a lot less emboldened by oil and gas riches than their mightier Kazakh neighbours to the north.
But it’s a country blessed with landscape and beguiling culture. Well worth visiting if you come all this way. Stay a little longer if you can.
Next time: The start of a series on Kazakhstan – time to put those Borat myths to bed?…
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