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Morecambe: Stay on the bay

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Why settle for a day out when you can stay over?

After my successful break on the Fylde Coast, I decided to repeat the feat for Morecambe Bay, a familiar seaside spot in north Lancashire.

I spent a couple of nights in the town’s landmark Art Deco hotel and witnessed some jaw-dropping dawns and sunsets for the first time.

So I didn’t rush back home to Manchester for once. Was it worth the extra effort? CONTINUE READING BELOW.

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Morecambe’s Midland Hotel, a stylish slab of Art Deco concrete close to the beach, had long been on my list of places to spend a night or two.

The building won my heart with its elegant circular staircase, while I was given Room 101 – a large double room on a curve of the property.

It wasn’t a cheap stay, but I was in the perfect place to witness Morecambe Bay’s legendary sunsets. Ample skies, a scattering of cloud and the still waters providing a perfect mirror – I struck gold.

I also rose around 6am to see the sun rise with scarlet ribbons of colour layering the sky and Cumbria’s fells lining the horizon. The sea front was very quiet, settling my inner peace.

The last of the sunlight reflecting on the water of Morecambe Bay in Lancashire.

Dusk beauty awaits Morecambe visitors

There was plenty of time during my extended stay to take a walk to Heysham, a little seaside village I’ve visited on a previous occasion.

I wandered through Morecambe’s West End on the way, through streets full of historical markers but waiting for a good dose of TLC. 

As a regular solo traveller, it was lovely to speak to local people on my walks. They admitted the town needs a boost and whispered that the Midland Hotel has lost a little of its sheen in recent years.

This was a little staycation that proved a success – you can experience so much more if you decide to stay for a night or two. So where’s next?…

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Kazakhstan: Natural wonders

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If you visit Kazakhstan, you’ll definitely see some of this vast country’s impressive landscapes.

Between the contrasting cities of Astana and Almaty, my trip was filled with geographical highlights of a nation blessed by nature.

Lakes, canyons, mountains and water give Kazakhstan a lot to boast about. Here’s just a brief glance of views making the long journey to Central Asia worth every mile.

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The vast Kazakh steppe seen from a train

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Coastal hike: St Annes to Fleetwood

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My Manchester home is a great base for visiting the sights of North-West England.

After countless day trips to the seaside and hills, I stayed a few nights at St Annes on Lancashire’s Fylde Coast.

There was no rush to catch the train home, I saw sunsets turn into summer nights and I had time for a long coastal photo hike after some shorter efforts on day visits.

From my base in St Anne’s I walked the 20km (12 miles) north to Fleetwood. It was a very warm day with a blue sky etched with some white candyfloss clouds.

Was there a lot to see and photograph? See for yourself – the gallery follows my route. Continue reading below for some hike highlights.

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ST ANNES: With its vast beach and far distant tide, this was a tranquil (if warm) start to the trek. Just a few dog walkers to share the sand with, not far from the might of Britain’s best-known seaside resort.

BLACKPOOL: Walking towards a large glitterball on the town’s South Shore means you have arrived. With three piers, a vast tower and plenty of visitors on a sunny day, it can be an assault on the senses but sparkles under the blue sky.

CLEVELEYS: Calmer compared to the razzmatazz of Blackpool, this beachfront has the elaborate architecture of sea defences and a giant seashell sculpture which is losing its lustre to the sea.

ROSSALL: More of a long stretch of coastal footpath with beach and open sea attached, this is a peaceful place to walk. At the end you’ll see the curious and unexpected Rossall Point watchtower.

FLEETWOOD: I tracked inland to see this town’s boating lake, which hides the sea and shimmers in the hot sunshine. A brief look at the impressive Mount Church before finding the tram stop to take me back south.

Staying for the sunset

I rode the entire Blackpool tram line from Fleetwood to Starr Gate, then faced a considerable walk back to my base on St Annes Promenade. After some refreshing drinks and refuelling, dusk and then sunset arrived.

The beach was busy with other sunset watchers, but not crowded. The pier created a focal point while silhouettes darted here and there.

This was the reason for staying over and not rushing back to Manchester. A little staycation with no flights, passports or other travel worries.

A summer sunset on St Anne's beach on the Lancashire coast.

The sinking sun over St Anne's Beach in Lancashire, featuring the pier's old jetty.

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Almaty: Heart of Kazakhstan

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Kazakhstan. One of the few countries to replace its capital city and build a brand spanking new one.

Almaty was the capital of Soviet and independent Kazakhstan from 1929-97 when the government upped sticks north to Astana.

The city still boasts a population of two million and is always on every Kazakhstan tour itinerary.

How does Almaty compare to its shiny replacement Astana? Here’s what I found on my trip to Kazakhstan. CONTINUE READING BELOW

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When you arrive in Almaty on a sleeper train from Shymkent, it takes time to adjust to your new settings.

But this is a walkable city with a view of the mighty Tien Shan mountains never far away. On foot you soon discover Almaty is very different to purpose-built Astana.

The opulent interior of the Orthodox Ascension Cathedral in Almaty, Kazakhstan.

The warmth and spirituality of Almaty’s Ascension Cathedral

The architecture stretches a lot further back, from well-worn but interesting apartment blocks from the Soviet era, to the multi-coloured confection of Almaty’s main Orthodox cathedral.

We were in Kazakhstan in time for commemorations to mark the Second World War’s end, and Almaty’s Memorial of Glory was carpeted in red flowers and decorated with Soviet symbolism. A bygone age that still casts a shadow over this city.

One legacy of the USSR sits deep beneath the surface of the city. The underground rail system is a cheap way to zip around Almaty and a tourist must-see with its elaborate and ornate stations.

The city’s vast Green Market groans under the weight of fresh produce (including horse meat – this is Central Asia). The colour, noise, people and aromas make it a place to explore and get a snapshot of a country.

Tour leader Nazira Rakhmetova giving expert guidance around Almaty, Kazakhstan.

Discover Almaty with a local: expert guide Nazira in full flow

And if you want a memorable evening out, some city restaurants offer a robust range of national dishes accompanied by the mesmerising, haunting sound of live Kazakh music. This place turned out to be an excellent choice.

Time in Almaty was limited as we tried to cover the vastness of Kazakhstan (and smaller neighbour Kyrgyzstan).

But a solo Sunday afternoon stroll along Zhibek Zholi, one of Almaty’s thoroughfares, was very telling. It was relaxed with locals stopping for an ice-cream and enjoying a day off.

Almaty feels very lived in and like it has evolved over decades. It may no longer have the status of a national capital, but still has all the hallmarks of Kazakhstan’s most important city.

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Kazakhstan’s mystical city

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Kazakhstan is vast. After being wowed by the country’s showpiece capital Astana, it took a two-hour flight to reach my next destination.

Turkistan is a city in the south of the country and the resting place of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, a Sufi teacher and mystic revered by Central Asian Muslims.

His mausoleum is a beautiful old building in a place that celebrates ancient traditions. But Turkistan has a thoroughly modern side and is geared up for floods of visitors.

Is this a tourist trap or an essential stop on your Kazakh adventure? CONTINUE READING BELOW

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The Yasawi mausoleum is the star of Turkistan with its ornate blue dome, beautifully tiled exterior and a deep sense of history.

Other roots of Kazakh tradition are on show nearby, including an ancient bath house and a covered bazaar street (now selling an array of souvenirs).

Old gives way to the brand spanking new in the Karavansaray development, a complex offering shops, restaurants serving Kazakh dishes and other leisure pursuits. There’s even a Venetian-style waterway where you can take a boat trip.

While it’s easy to be a little cynical about what Turkistan has to offer, there’s one attraction which blew my socks off.

Housed under a sparkling gold dome, the flying theatre uses spectacular footage and shifting chairs to take you on a magic carpet ride over Kazakhstan.

Two young waitresses photographed at a traditional restaurant in the Kazakh city of Turkistan.

Steppe smiles: Staff at a Turkistan restaurant serving hearty Kazakh food

It was like a thinking man’s thrill ride and an unexpectedly moving experience which you must do if you land in this city.

Turkistan was just a quick stop between Astana and an overnight train ride to Kazakhstan’s biggest city Almaty. 

It broke up the long hours of travel and was a startling contrast between modern attractions and its ancient mausoleum, which is worth seeing if Uzbekistan and its Silk Road treasures are not part of your Central Asia itinerary.

Forgettable travel isn’t worth doing and Turkistan had its memorable moments.

Next time: Almaty, displaced by Astana as Kazakhstan’s capital, but still arguably the beating heart of the country.