photography

Djerba: A little piece of Tunisia

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There’s only one way to escape a long British winter and that’s flying off to warmer climes.

I chose Tunisia as my change of scenery and the island of Djerba in the south of this North African country.

Djerba has been welcoming guests for decades with its Mediterranean shores, golden sands and wealth of hotels.

While relaxing in the sun is on offer, delve a little deeper and you’ll discover Arab culture and the vibrancy of the souk. CONTINUE READING BELOW

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Booking my package trip to Djerba was effortless, with direct flights from Manchester and choosing one of the numerous hotels on offer.

The Iberostar Waves Mehari, with its large premises at the quieter end of Djerba’s north-east coast and close to the beach, looked a good choice.

The gardens were nicely manicured, my room quiet and comfortable, while the buffet restaurant was packed with delicious food at breakfast and dinner.

The hotel also has its own stretch of beach – the starting point for me to explore this developed coast. First impressions were that it was a little scruffy, while friendly packs of dogs existed alongside camels and horses that could be hired for rides.

While many holidaymakers choose to relax by the hotel pool, I decided to hire a bicycle thanks to the very friendly service of Djerba Cyclo.

I visited other parts of the island’s coastline on my metal steed and discovered some truly stunning beaches which were practically deserted and bathed in Caribbean colours.

Author Mike Osborn enjoying the cool waters of Djerba in Tunisia.

Djerba is a place to take a paddle

I was intent on visiting Houmt Souk, Djerba’s main town, but swapped bike for very reasonably priced taxi to make the 22km journey each way.

The town’s old souk is captivating with its little winding streets with some shabby facades offering colourful wares.

Yes you’ll be hustled inside shops and given the hard sell, but it’s part of the experience and there’s never an obligation to buy. Use it as an opportunity to speak to Tunisians and find out a little more about them.

It’s also worth walking to the seafront and visiting the Ghazi Mustapha fortress’s solid walls. From the ramparts I noticed bathers paddling in the surprisingly shallow waters.

Djerba. You can visit and never leave your sunbed – the perfect holiday for some people. But it’s worth seeing more of this Tunisian island. Next time: Cycle rides, mosques and Djerban architecture.

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Wirral: Spring has sprung

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When the first signs of Spring show, my instinct is to get out of the city and enjoy some fresh air.

A few weeks ago this took me from Manchester to the Wirral Peninsula near Liverpool, a place I’ve visited many times.

The little town of West Kirby on Wirral’s western edge is blessed with water, wide beaches and open skies. Is this a good place to end your winter hibernation? CONTINUE READING BELOW

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The first place I visited in West Kirby was the war memorial, an energetic walk uphill. The site, which offers views across the peninsula and Irish Sea, was bathed in buttery yellow gorse blossom.

One place that I always visit and photograph is the Marine Lake and the walkway that encircles the water. Little figures of walkers and a huge bright sky always create memorable frames.

To the north at the mercy of the tide is Hilbre Island and expanses of sand alongside shifting waters.

I also took my sun-kissed walk around the corner of the peninsula, skirting Hoylake promenade and sands which have been rewilded from beach to greenery.

This is an outing that never fails to energise and lift the mood, especially when it felt like an end to a long winter.

Walkers enjoy an early Spring walk around the Marine Lake path in West Kirby, Wirral.

West Kirby walkers enjoy Spring skies

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Five escapes from the winter gloom

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The European winter is long and hard with freezing weather and dreary days.

Here in Manchester, we’re enduring a spell of really cold torpid days instead of hopeful signs of Spring.

This makes February and March a perfect time to get away and inject some sunshine and warmth into our lives.

If you’re fortunate enough to be able jet off, jumping from winter into an early summer is worth the journey. Here are five places you might consider for an injection of Vitamin D – and much more.

1. AGADIR

Feb/March temperature: 20-23C

This Moroccan seaside resort has been welcoming European visitors escaping the winter for decades and is a four-hour flight from the UK. It has a broad stretch of Atlantic beach and a host of hotels and restaurants. The old town comes with a souk and a splash of North African colour to complement the warm seaside vibe, while there are other lovely coastal towns to visit.

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Visitors on a shimmering shoreline on Agadir beach in Morocco.

2. HAVANA

Feb/March temperature: 26-28C

This sunny destination is more long haul, but well worth the journey. This legendary city with its colourful, tumbledown buildings, vintage cars and salsa rhythms is a real experience which will erase all memories of winter. If you want to sip rum cocktails on the beach, then head to Varadero to soak up the sunshine and also consider visiting some of Cuba’s other delightful cities.

Tap/click image for more about Havana and the island of Cuba

A jumble of multi-coloured buildings in the Cuban capital Havana.

3. CAPE VERDE

Feb/March temperature: 22C

This African island archipelago adrift in the Atlantic Ocean, around six hours flying time from the UK,  boasts a very pleasant all year round climate. The arid islands of Sal and Boa Vista have become popular beach holiday havens. But you can visit the other islands for a different flavour, such as rugged, verdant Santo Antão which is a great place to get your hike on.

Tap/click image to explore the Cape Verde islands

The rugged coastline of the Cape Verdean island of Santo Antão at Ponta do Sol

4. ABU DHABI

Feb/March temperature: 25-28C

The futuristic city of Dubai is a huge draw for winter tourism with a party vibe, but just up the Gulf coast is Abu Dhabi, which is less about staggering skyscrapers, feels more lived in and less of a showcase. It boasts a delightful corniche and sandy beaches, while a visit to the stunning Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque is an absolute must.

Tap/click image to see more of this waterfront city

Water and illuminated marble of Sheikh Zayed mosque in Abu Dhabi, seen at night.

5. CAPE TOWN

Feb/March temperature: 25C

One way to virtually guarantee a successful escape from the European winter is to head to the southern hemisphere summer. This South African city is perched on the edge of the continent with invigorating beachscapes and the majestic backdrop of Table Mountain. The multi-coloured district of Bo-Kaap lifts the soul. Cape Town is a great starting point for exploring more of South Africa.

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A street of multi-coloured houses in the Cape Town district of Bo-Kaap.

✈️ Do you seek the warm sunshine in winter? If you have any destination suggestions, please leave a comment below. Thank you!

January in 15 photographs

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January is said to be the most thankless, depressing of the winter months.

The joy of Christmas has passed and we’re left with freezing temperatures and dark days.

This year I didn’t escape to warm, tropical shores. I stayed in Manchester and saw snow and thick fog come and go.

But I made the most of bright, chilly days and chased our city’s new architecture while it shone.

My only trip was to the coastal town of Morecambe, on the edge of a still, icy arm of the Irish Sea which had a captivating magic.

How has this long, cold month been for you?

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Comoros Islands: Ngazidja

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The Comoros Islands. An unheralded destination in the beautiful Indian Ocean.

If you make the journey to this small country, you’ll certainly set foot on Ngazidja – or Grande Comore – the largest and most populous island of this little-known archipelago.

My initial stay on the ‘big island’ was just for a few days before heading by air to smaller siblings Mohéli and Anjouan.  

Did the return trip save the best until last?… CONTINUE READING BELOW

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Arriving at Moroni’s very small airport is an experience – and an indication that the Comoros aren’t used to receiving hordes of tourists. 

But there’s a lot to see on Ngazidja, from the bustling streets and rustic markets of the capital, where you’ll encounter few European visitors and feel you’re really off the beaten track.

The coastline offers undeveloped beaches, dramatic rock formations and stunningly vibrant mangrove lagoons. Further inland there are ancient baobab trees with trunks mighty enough to hide an entire tour group.

If architecture is your bag, be sure to see medinas of old houses and carved doors. There are also ruined sultans’ palaces to see at sunset as the call to prayer rings out and bats cross the sky.

Author Mike Osborn in his tent on a trip to volcano Mount Karthala in the Comoros.

Staying in a tent was an island highlight

Islam holds sway over this island, so there are mosques of all eras to spot.

An inescapable observation about Ngazidja and the Comoros is the presence of litter. With no waste collections, it’s a blight on the landscape.

The same goes for abandoned skeletons of vehicles, sometimes in the middle of otherwise beautiful countryside. This needs to change if the Comoros wants to attract more visitors in the future.

The return to Ngazidja was dominated by one prospect – a trip to Mount Karthala, the island’s dominant volcano which last erupted in 2007.

From a village in the foothills it was a four-hour hike to the crater and back. There was no swirling, fiery cauldron at the top but a vast landscape buried in volcanic matter.

The truly memorable experience was dinner cooked on the fire in the village and spending the night in tents surrounded by lowing cattle and waking up to an atmospheric, misty sunrise.

Getting to know the pet tortoises in the Comoros.

Travel buddy Corinna greets a pet tortoise

A night under the stars aside, home for this part of the stay was the Itsandra Beach Hotel and Resort, set by a lovely part of the coast with stunning sunsets and even pet tortoises mooching around the lawn.

It had the first sense of developed tourism but was by no means busy. A comfortable base to prepare for the long, drawn out journey back to the UK but possibly the least authentic version of this yet to be discovered country.

If you’re travelling this far, you have to visit all three Comoros islands. They each have something unique to offer and will appeal to your sense of adventure. There’s only one way to find out… 

  • Would you like to experience the Comoros Islands for yourself? My small group tour was with Undiscovered Destinations and operates twice a year. They also arranged air travel with Ethiopian Airlines, from Manchester to Moroni via Addis Ababa with two further brief stopovers in Geneva and Dar-Es-Salaam. Any further questions, please get in touch.