Montenegro: Kotor day trip

This is the beach getaway to Spain that turned into a break in the small Balkan nation of Montenegro.

I stayed in the historic town of Perast on scenic Boka Bay, and a trip to nearby Kotor was an obvious way to spend a day.

Was this old city worth a visit? CONTINUE READING BELOW


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The journey from Perast to Kotor took half an hour on one of the regular local buses, costing a princely €2 each way.

As soon as I walked into the old town, it lived up to all my expectations.

Honey-coloured stone, small piazzas with churches and bell towers, and a labyrinth of alleyways studded with small shops and cafes were vying for attention.

Raise your eyes up a little further to see the cloud-topped mountains that tower above this old architecture, while the town is incredibly feline-friendly and a place to watch locals going about their lives.

It’s a tourist magnet and welcomes cruise liners, so expect these well-worn streets to get busy as they did even at the start of April. Arriving early and avoiding the summer months might be a wise move.

The old fortress high above the town of Kotor in Montenegro.

You might find yourself high above Kotor

Getting away from the city is a big part of its charm – if you’re feeling energetic you can climb above the old town to the tune of 1,350 steps, visiting the old fortress for stunning views over Kotor and the bay.

I think that going down can be trickier, but was glad to land back in the old town where there are no shortage of places for refreshment and to rest your legs.

As I returned to Perast, I wondered what it would be like to stay within Kotor’s walls and see it by night. I think my smaller base was the more tranquil option.

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São Tomé: Holiday paradise?

Choosing an unusual holiday destination is a bit of a gamble.

But when a country has relatively few visitors, you hope your efforts will be rewarded with something out of this world (and bragging rights!)

So I journeyed from Manchester to Lisbon to catch a six-and-a-half-hour flight to São Tomé e Príncipe, a small island nation off the African coast.

São Tomé is the largest island with the bulk of the country’s 223,000 inhabitants. The journey from the airport was straight through the capital city at dusk, which hummed with life.

Was it worth going the extra mile to see this island? CONTINUE READING BELOW


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My first lasting impression of São Tomé was one of holiday bungalows set in palm-fringed grounds, with a private beach and pool area close by.

Club Santana seemed geared up to European visitors who could happily wile away a fortnight relaxing in the winter sun – and I tapped into that vibe.

But this was also my base to begin exploring the island, which I did courtesy of guide Diego and a driver.

The eastern side of São Tomé is pierced with coastal highlights including the lively Mouth of Hell and broad sandy beaches.

This was also my first taste of the country’s roças. These grand estates were built by the Portuguese during their centuries of rule to exploit São Tomé’s cocoa resources.

Since independence in 1975 the roças have fallen into disrepair, but families are still living in the dilapidated buildings and struggling to make a living. It’s ironic that these colonial throwbacks are now very much on the tourist trail.

A bungalow at the Mucumbli lodge on the island of São Tomé.

My Mucumbli bungalow was surrounded by lush tropical greenery

I visited Roça São João which has been turned into a small hotel and is famous for its multi-course tasting menu. Maybe this is the future for São Tomé’s dessicating colonial leftovers.

There had to be a trip to São Tomé’s capital city, where I was drawn to some crumbling but boldly painted architecture.

It has the chaotic verve of any African city with people going about their daily business under tropical humidity. It’s a lot and you need to keep your wits about you.

I left São Tomé for a number of days to stay on its tranquil smaller sibling Príncipe, returning to a new home and a different set of experiences.

Mucumbli lodge is on the west coast of the island, a verdant oasis with views over the ocean. I had my own bungalow again, with rustic furnishings and a peaceful terrace facing the trees and Atlantic.

Activities here were more energetic, including a hike around the island’s Lagoa Amelia, a rich area of cultivated terraces and dense rainforest.

Seven hours and many slippery paths later, I was proud to have made it and needed a very long shower back at Mucumbli and one of their beautifully cooked, tasty dinners.

Is São Tomé worth the journey?

So did my São Tomé gamble pay off and is it the holiday paradise we haven’t yet discovered?

Well if you want a very exotic couple of weeks basking in the sunshine, that’s possible. The island has some well established accommodation to suit languid Europeans. The quality of food and level of service is impressive.

But there’s so much more this country has to offer, with beautiful landscapes, stunning nature and a compelling history. You’d be missing out if you didn’t venture beyond your relaxing compound.

A word of warning, however. English has only been taught in high schools since 2019 and São Tomé is only used to relatively small numbers of visitors. But well worth considering before tourism really takes over these little islands.

My trip to São Tomé e Príncipe was organised by Archipelago Choice, a small specialist travel agency based here in northern England. International flights to the islands were with Air Portugal and inter-island flights with STP Airways.

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Lancaster: City of the past

My home city of Manchester is a heady mix of historical architecture and shiny new skyscrapers.

Travel north by train for an hour and you’ll reach Lancaster, a historic city that owes a great deal to its past… CONTINUE READING BELOW


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From Lancaster train station it’s just a short walk to the city’s imposing castle, which was also a prison until as late as 2011.

Dark walls and deep crenellations give way to charming old houses around Castle Hill, some of them quaintly crooked, others with vine-covered porches.

As I wandered around the city centre on a sunny day, the dark sandstone of historical buildings persisted. There wasn’t a whiff of any new architecture, let alone the lofty glass and steel we have here in Manchester.

Lancaster may have an old shell, but it’s a thriving place filled with coffee shops, food stalls and everything needed by modern city dwellers. There was a pleasant hum of life walking around its historic streets.

Lancaster is also blessed with an old waterway and it’s well worth a diversion to wander along its towpath and under some low-slung bridges – they’ve been there some time too!

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Stockport: Discovering the Old Town

Stockport is just a short train ride away from Manchester but it’s taken me five years to explore the historical Old Town.

It’s bristling with beautiful architecture, from the imposing St Mary’s church, an elaborate Victorian glasshouse that houses an indoor market, to the magnificent Art Deco Plaza cinema and theatre. Come and take a look… READ MORE BELOW


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The old town is made to explore on foot, although be prepared for some steep stairways and uphill sections.

It’s now made for day trippers, with independent shops to explore and cafes to enjoy. Everyday outlets are all concentrated in the cheerlessly modern Merseyway mall which is best avoided.

You should also wander down to the area where you can visit Stockport’s air raid shelters and see the hat museum’s totemic chimney. There you’ll find the 1930s splendour of the Plaza and can glimpse the town’s impressive railway viaduct.

If you think Stockport is just the rail stop before Manchester, then think again. It was a pleasure to visit and I’ll be heading there again.

Stockport town centre sign

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Kosovo: Europe’s newest nation

Kosovo is a small, landlocked state in the Balkans that declared its independence in 2008, making it the most recent addition to the European family of nations. But it’s an area with a long and tangled history, and some countries have refused to recognise it.

Kosovo is still considered an unlikely tourist destination, but I visited in the summer along with Albania and North Macedonia. 

I found it the most fascinating of the trio. It feels like a country still being built, while there is a sharp divide between the majority Albanian population and a number of Serb enclaves. 

What is there to see? The old city of Prizren is a gem, while Kosovo’s capital Pristina bristles with stark modern architecture. Peja bustles with life on a summer’s evening. Kosovo also has treasured Serbian Orthodox churches and monasteries which have to be visited. And fancy a woodland hike with a beautiful mirror lake at the end of it? 

So here’s what I saw. It might be worth adding this new nation to your travel bucket list.


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