Middle East travel

Tensions in the Middle East have ratcheted up since the killing of Iranian military commander Qasem Soleimani, while the unintentional shooting down of a Ukrainian passenger jet has done little to instill confidence in travellers to the region.

I’ve visited the Middle East several times over the last 15 years and discovered a compelling part of the world which has a lot to offer.

The futuristic desert cities of Dubai and Abu Dhabi are thrilling discoveries en route to chilled Indian Ocean beach holidays. Oman is more low-rise, restrained and authentic, but with a splash of luxury should you want it.

Further up the Gulf is the small state of Qatar, where I happily spent a week exploring capital city Doha and indulging in some dune bashing out in the desert. Jordan and Israel, meanwhile, have a wealth of historical treasures and the relaxing Dead Sea.

For sunshine seekers during the long UK winter, the Middle East presents opportunities for good weather and a seaside climate. But how do you decide if it’s safe to visit? Read more below the gallery


A taste of the Middle East. Click first image to view gallery


For UK travellers, the definitive place to go for advice about visiting the Middle East is the Foreign and Commonwealth Office website. The information is detailed, comprehensive and updated constantly.

Iran, Iraq and war-ravaged Syria and Yemen currently carry a red warning against all travel. More popular destinations including the United Arab Emirates come with the advice that “the security situation could worsen with little warning”, while historically most visits are “trouble free”.

A whole host of other trusted travel sources, such as Fodor’s, are also providing information about the situation.

As part of my year of travel, I was very keen to visit Iran, famed for its cultural treasures, delicious cuisine and welcoming people. But I put this on ice before recent events, concerned about the government’s attitude towards LGBT issues.

I’ve also had my eye on a tour of Lebanon but am reconsidering, given the presence of Iranian-backed militias in the country.

Choosing never to travel to the Middle East again would be an oversight. The region has so much to offer and is richly photogenic.

But you don’t have to make any decisions alone – there is a lot of guidance available.

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Gulf sunrise

Getting up early to witness the sunrise takes a lot of effort, but it’s ultimately worth it. This particular morning I was in Doha, the capital of Qatar. I walked through the empty, grand corridors of the St Regis Hotel to the jetty next to the waters of the Arabian Gulf.

The tall buildings of this showcase city – which pulsate with colour at night – looked steely in the early light, but it soon gradually turned lustrous and golden, shared by the occasional bird and little else. The sunrise belonged to me and I was privileged to capture a little of its essence. Well worth the early alarm call…


Click first image to view the gallery

Desert sea

Qatar isn’t all about its ultra-modern, glittering capital city Doha. In fact, you don’t have to travel far to explore the desert wilderness of this Arabian country. A popular excursion is taking a jeep to the wastes for some exhilarating ‘dune bashing’, a spot of camel riding and to see this small country’s hidden gem.

The Khor al Adaid – or Inland Sea – is a channel of the Arabian Gulf which cuts deep into the desert. It’s a sparkling blue body of water separating Qatar and Saudi Arabia. Aside from the odd jeep, it’s calm, quiet and mostly unspoilt. There are no high-rise resorts here. You’re likely to be offered this trip in Qatar – my advice is to go and take your camera with you.


Click first image to see the gallery

Islamic beauty

Qatar is a new country full of contemporary buildings created with its staggering oil wealth. The country’s largest mosque in the capital Doha is a new build, while Katara Cultural Village, boasting lavish gold and blue mosques, is also an architectural newcomer. Doha’s Pearl, a large complex built on reclaimed land, is a recent addition as well.

But these new structures are steeped in tradition, with stylish, beautiful lines and curves. Intricate designs stay pure to Islam and do not depict human or animal forms. Instead of being sterile, these are pleasing on the eye and photographically pure and balanced.


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Doha after dark

Night falls quickly in the Middle East and lasts a long time. Evenings can turn quite chilly in the depths of what passes for winter there. In Qatar’s showpiece capital city, Doha, the darkness is immediately studded with the twinkling lights of its many skyscrapers.

My haven for capturing this multicoloured cityscape was the jetty at the St Regis Hotel, my palatial home there. It was always empty, giving me peace and space for some long exposure photography.

There were also other places to capture the bright night city, including Z Lounge, a swish cocktail bar perched on the 61st floor of a tower block – a spectacular view but harder to photograph. And in the evening hubbub of the city’s souk, I found the entrance to a restaurant bedecked like Aladdin’s cave. You’ll never be afraid of the dark in this city…


Click first image to see the gallery

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